You know, from bitter experience, that we of the Linkery must occasionally inform you that the item you came in for has been 86′d. We’re not trying to be coy–it’s just a case of too little, too late. That’s the nature of farm-to-table–capturing the ephemeral flavors before they are withdrawn, all too soon, by seasonal cycles, fateful dearth or ravenous appetites.
But we usually run out of things like filet mignon, or cherry clafoutis. It’s rare that we run out of a starter (unless it’s the grilled green beans). But last weekend crowned another prom queen among appetizers, when the call went out to 86 the eggplant dip.
In case you missed it that night, this is a melange of “Nadia” Italian globe eggplant (the ones you’re used to seeing on the shelves–glossy, black-purple, heavy in the hips), roasted and salted and combined with pickled yellow sweet peppers, and spiked with onions and who knows what else. It’s served cold–so don’t expect eggplant Parmesan, and it’s chunky–so don’t look for baba ghanoujj. Just take a bite and free your mind, and be glad you got some before it was gone.
Between the notorious green beans and the sputnik-sized cabbages, we’ve long suspected the growers at Suzie’s Farm of doctoring their soil with something addictive. This eggplant is further evidence of their plot to take over the world. We say, let them.
If you want a piece of the hottest hors d’oeuvre action of the season, here’s what you do. Get here at 6pm, take a seat by the window, order a carafe of Ruby Rhone blend and ask nicely for the eggplant dip, close your eyes against the sun’s waning glare, and open your mouth to the flavors of Provence in summertime.
Boyd, our resident bon vivant, demonstrates proper technique.